I’m working on Vogue 8940, which is the first thing besides boxers I’ve made for my OH. After 2 1/2 test garments, I think I have the last fitting issue sorted, and am waiting for him to wake so I can pounce and (after his coffee; I’m not a monster) have him try it on yet again.
I’m not over-fitting; I’m just new to both menswear and coats. I definitely like the reduced stress of getting a muslin to the point where I’m happy with it before I cut fashion fabric.
Assuming all is well, I’ll move on to doing more with understructure than the pattern includes. I still have a couple of months before his birthday (by which time it will be cold here), but I’m pretty slow, so may be late…
Over the past couple of months I’ve referred to several books, including The Complete Book of Tailoring
by Adele Margolis, The Encyclopedia of Sewing (review at PR) also by Margolis, Tailoring: Traditional and Contemporary Techniques by Ledbetter & Lansing, Traditional Tailoring Techniques by Cabrera (the women’s wear edition, but much has been helpful), and the short and basic Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket.
I also watched pretty much every tailoring class on Craftsy when I had the October free pass. Though I’m personally not a fan of her The Sewing Book, Alison Smith’s classes were my favorite — Tailoring Structure and Tailoring Construction (which actually focused heavily on women’s tailored jackets, but did mention the full front structure of most men’s coats) — both detailed and clear.
ETA — Add to this Poulin’s Tailoring Suits the Professional Way, which focuses mainly on menswear, unlike all the books above. The full 1952 edition is available as a pdf thanks to a kind cutter and tailor member here (click the link that says “Poulin Trousermaking”). The ’73 ed. with some content differences, including the addition of women’s coats, is at archive.org.