This weekend I experimented with the thinnest, stretchiest knit I’ve tackled yet. A 4-way stretch that was cheap from a pop-up shop in Porirua. The easiest pattern I had for it was McCalls 8777.
I traced out full pattern pieces so I wouldn’t need to cut anything on the fold, then pinned fabric and pattern to foam core board. After trying the fabric with a few types of needles, I liked the stretch needle best. Foot pressure was reduced by more than half, and I sandwiched strips of water soluble stabilizer in the seams. Tension was set to 2 for most of it, but I hemmed with a double stretch needle, and for that I set tension to zero to keep it flat. At the shoulder and neckline, I stabilized with 1/4″ cotton tape (bought at Made Marion while enjoying the Mad Skills class).
None of the adjustments were that time consuming, so I was happy with a quick top made with just foot #1 on the Activa 130.